The big swell

 

 

“There is a greater risk of infection because of the increased bacterial count in the water,” said Dr Clarke.

“Combining this with the high risk of lacerations or even concussion from floating and submerged debris, it may be best to experience the spectacle from the safety of the shore,” he added.

Port Macquarie’s Senior Lifeguard Grant Hudson said that he has rarely seen surfable conditions at Pilot Beach, which lies within the mouth of the Hastings River.

“Whilst very exciting for the kids to be part of this rare event, it is concerning that most paddle across the raging waters which are full of unexpected surprises,” he said.

“With a huge swell travelling right up the entrance of the river, it also makes negotiating the entry and exit of the water very hazardous.”

Further to what Hudson warns regarding the dangers of entering and exiting the water via the breakwall rocks, is the unstable condition of sections of the breakwall itself.

Public Affairs Manager for Catchments and Lands, John McClymont, asks that the public be mindful of potential hazards following the recent storms.

“The council roped off a section of the breakwater after it was damaged by the storms,” said Mr McClymont.

“The Crown Lands Division is responsible for breakwater maintenance and assessed the damage on Monday to determine what work needed to be done.”

Peter Ellison from Marine Rescue Port Macquarie says that, whilst they have been relatively quiet whilst the seas have been at their peak, they do expect boaties to encounter difficulties as they venture out through the heads.

“We urge all sea-going craft to log their destination, number of passengers and expected time of arrival back to the safety of the river with us before exiting the heads,” said Ellison. “We also invite anyone not familiar with the local waters to stop by the Marine Rescue office, which is located above the kiosk at town beach, before heading out to sea.”

Marine rescue is open 24/7 and only too happy to assist with enquires.

Port Macquarie local surfer Joel Groth was one of the first surfers to take to the waters following the storms.

“I have called breakwall my local break for almost 20 years,” he said.

“Although we have surfed it when conditions have been bigger and better, the tide and current last week made this surf something to remember.

“The current was that strong it was like a marathon just to stay in the wave action without getting swept out to sea.

“A big swell, good sand and massive tides are perfect ingredients for big choppy tubes and that’s what the breakwall boys live for.”

Just as fast as the waters turned dark brown, did they start to find their beautiful blue.

With the swell still pumping and strong off-shore winds, a number of seasoned riders took to the perfect surfing conditions at the northern end of Port Macquarie’s Town Beach.

For Mick ‘Cambo’ Campbell it was like child’s play, carving up the 6-8 foot waves and finding the back of a tube on numerous occasions.

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